On the borders of the Grand Duchy of Tuscany

The Pistoia Mountains were the northern border of the Grand Duchy of Tuscany. A very important water and forest resource, it was the theater of wars with the Duchy of Lucca and an open-air "prison" for numerous brigands and dissidents who were sent to confinement.

With our bikes, we can retrace some of this history, riding on paths, bridges and rocks that tell of these past events through toponymy (Monte Tre Potenze: Grand Duchy of Tuscany, Duchy of Lucca, Duchy of Modena) and idioms (“Lucchio, Limano e Vico tre paesi che non valgono un fico” – Lucchio, Limano and Vico three villages that are not worth a fig).

We start, for the sake of convenience, from the village of Pian degli Ontani, a small residential hamlet with overnight accommodations and water and food supplies in local stores. We travel to a high altitude towards the village of Pian di Novello via a 3 kilometer trail along the Sestaione river, facing the first 150 meters of positive elevation gain. We cross the river via the convenient bridge and reach Provincial Road 20, which will take us to the entrance of the Foresta Biogenetica di Pian degli Ontani (Pian degli Ontani Biogenetic Forest).

The high-trunk tree forest is stunning: let the charm and peace of this stretch among the beech trees envelop you. We travel for about 7 kilometers on a very compact bottom of fine gravel to take the most complicated part of the trail. In fact, here we enter a wide descent on the left, where we need to pay attention to the bottom that can change depending on the rainfall. The descent is short and brings us to the foot of a "ramp" that leads us toward Fonte Fredda. Here and in the previous 7 kilometers there are no springs, so make sure to have full canteens until Popiglio.

Immediately after Fonte Fredda, the road narrows and we come to a passage with narrow hairpin bends in rapid succession, where it is better to get off our bikes. After the last few steps of this short stretch with some complications, we get back on the saddle. The road underneath Mount Piastra widens and the compact bottom of fine gravel returns, which will take us toward the Torri di Popiglio (Towers of Popiglio). If you have time you can ride to the foot of the lookout towers.

Taking care on the steep, unpaved descent, we arrive at Popiglio, an ancient medieval village that deserves a stop. We descend further toward the Ponte delle campanelle (Bridge of the bells), also called Ponte di Castruccio (Castruccio Bridge), which is rather important from the historical point of view as it was the old customs house between the Grand Duchy of Tuscany and the Duchy of Lucca.
A possible place for refreshments is located in the adjacent farmhouse. 

We start climbing back up toward the village of Piteglio and the locality of Migliorini. A undemanding climb, alternating with a few flat stretches that give us a little respite. After a visit to this village where history and legend intertwine in the footsteps of the Templars, we take the mostly flat trail that will take us as far as San Marcello. The trail does not pass through the center of the village, but it is possible to make a detour. The trail proceeds to Ponte Sospeso (Suspension Bridge), among the longest of its kind.

We enter State Road 66 back toward the village of San Marcello and continue toward Spignana, taking a climb of about 5 kilometers, alternating with some easier stretches. This will be the last real roughness in our route. In the locality of Lancisa we will begin the descent that will take us back to the Lima stream and, skirting it through the path of the Cammino di San Bartolomeo (St. Bartholomew Path), we will reach our final destination, which is the characteristic medieval village of Cutigliano.

We cross the town to admire the Palazzo dei Capitani della montagna (Palace of the Captains of the mountain) and thus reach Piazza Catalina, finishing our route.

Itinerary curated by Leonardo Corsini.